ERDC/CHL CHETN-III-67
September 2003
Figure 1. Dimensionless wave momentum flux versus h/gT2
The dashed line in Figure 1 gives the steepness-limited wave breaking criterion tabulated by
Williams (1985) and expressed by Sobey (1998) as the rational approximation
⎛ a1r + a2r 2 + a3r 3 ⎞
ω 2 H limit
⎜ 1+ b r + b r2 ⎟
= co tanh ⎜
(3)
⎟
g
⎠
⎝
1
2
where
co = 1.0575
a1 = 0.7879
r = ω 2h/g
a2 = 2.0064
a3 = -0.0962
b1 = 3.2924
b2 = -0.2645
Sobey noted the previous expression has a maximum error of 0.0014 over the range of Williams'
table. Williams' (1985) tabulation of limit waves is more accurate than the traditional limit wave
steepness given by
4